Madrid, na opinião de uma barcelonesa!

Há alguns meses conheci a Paula através do blog e rolou uma troca de ideias incrível. A Paula é uma barcelonesa que mora em Madrid, trabalha no posto de informação turística de Moncloa, fala português e adora a cultura brasileira.

Quando a convidei para escrever um post, ela não só escreveu (em português), como também escolheu um tema espinhoso: a relação entre madrilenhos e catalães e como descobrir um catalão em Madrid. Espero que vocês gostem tanto quanto eu. Obrigada, Paula!

5 dicas para pegar um catalão em Madrid

A primera vez que cheguei a Madrid tive a impressão que eu tinha chegado em outro planeta. Sim, sempre existem tópicos sobre a relação entre catalães e madrilenhos e na verdade temos culturas diferentes, mas somos povos muito amigos, apesar de alguns que querem que nos enfrentemos. Mais de quatro anos morando em Madrid e agora começo a entender como os madrilenhos olham os catalães -porque, certamente, se nota quando chegamos na cidade.

Madrid pela Paula

Madrid pela Paula (Instagram: ptite_afrique)

 Por que você fala isso, Paula? Desde o meu posto de trabalho, num posto de informação turística, tenho a sorte de me relacionar com muitas pessoas diferentes de todas os cantos do mundo. Aí eu gosto de adivinhar o origem dos turistas antes de que eles falem (preconceitos? não, um jogo!). Paisanos barceloneses… eu posso reconhecer vocês de simples vista. Deixe-me explicar cinco coisas que vão deixar claro que um catalão barcelonês chegou em Madrid:

1. O barcelonês fala muito bem o espanhol, mas delatam-lhes essas “eles” [l] tão marcadas e as “esses sonoras” [s] que não existem em espanhol ([z] intervocálica em português, como azúcar), mesmo quando eles acham que dissimulam o sotaque: Hollllllllllllllla, bueno[z] día[z]! Qué talllllllllll?
Então vocês perguntaram: o que fala essa gente? É CATALÃO, língua (não dialeto) que se fala no nordeste da Espanha.

2. Quando eu cheguei em Madri, a primera vez que pedi um café con leche o garçom perguntou-me: ¿Cómo quieres la leche? A resposta deveria ser fría (fria), caliente (quente) ou… NATURAL (temperado): Natural, por favor. Aí, claro, o garçom olhou para mim surpreso segurando os recipientes de leite, seguramente pensando “Como assim? Natural? Essa moça pretende que eu traga uma vaca e que eu pegue a leite aqui mesmo “naturalmente”…”

(Nota da blogueira: em Madrid é comum o garçom perguntar como você quer o leite – que em espanhol é uma palavra feminina – e as respostas costumam ser: caliente, fría ou morna).

Nesse momento ele retificou para mim: del tiempo, ¿no? Finalmente! Em Barcelona a gente fala “natural” para pedir o leite nem quente nem frio, mas da temperatura ambiente. Mas é claro: qual é a temperatura ambiente da leite em Madrid um 27 de agosto? Quente demais… Aí não tem cabimento o leite “natural”!

Cortado? Manchado? Natural? Os desafios de pedir um café com leite em Madrid!

Cortado? Manchado? Natural? Os desafios de pedir um café com leite em Madrid! (instagram: ptite_afrique)

Achamos mais uma confusão quando pedimos um cortado. Em Barcelona, um cortado é a mesma coisa que um café com leite mas numa xícara menor, meio café-meio leite. Temos novamente um problema com esse conceito: cortado em Madrid é café e uma ponta de leite numa xícara também pequena (um pingado em português). Para os apaixonados do café esse cortado é ótimo, mas se você não gosta do sabor tão forte e prefere suavizar com leite, então peça um manchado, ou seja leite “manchado” com um pingo de café. Atrapalhados? Eu também.
3. AH! Os churros… Essa delícia ideal para o café da manhã de qualquer domingo dos madrilenos. Aquí é tomado com uma xícara de chocolate quente, mas os “cafeteros” como eu preferimos com café con leche. O barcelonês conhece os churros mas não tem tanta tradição de comer esses doces. Tanto é assim que não recomendo vocês os churros de Barcelona, pois assim que prove em Madrid, já não gostará dos outros! Mesmo sendo a Espanha um país muito menor que o Brasil, temos diferenças culturais muito grandes entre o norte e o sul e mesmo entre as grandes capitais (ainda que o turismo comercial tente homogeneizar essas diferenças tão ricas para vender um produto cheio de folclore e tópicos já antiquados: paella, toros y ¡olé!).
Churros madrileño, uma tradição

Churros madrileño, uma tradição (Instagram: ptite_afrique)

4. Uma vez peguei uma barcelonesa no ar no instante em que ela estava explicando-me o roteiro que ela seguiu durante a estância dela em Madrid e de repente falou: hemos ido caminando “xino-xano” hasta el Palacio Real y después... ¿¿XINO-XANO?? Ahá! (pensei eu). Xino-xano é uma expressão que utilizamos os catalães para dizer que caminhamos tranquilamente, passeando, sem pressa. Se algum dia você fala com um espanhol que utiliza essa expressão, parabéns, já pegou um catalão!
Por que os catalães passeam xino-xano??

Por que os catalães passeam xino-xano?? (Instagram: ptite_afrique)

5. A quinta dica é um pouco mais difícil de explicar. Tem a ver com a utilização dos verbos ir/venir (ir/vir) e era motivo de confusão do meu namorado e meus amigos madrilenhos. Vamos colocar-nos em situação:

Temos dois interlocutores e um deles convida o seu parceiro para a festa de aniversário dele. María pergunta a Paco se ele quer vir (ela fica na casa) e Paco é quem se desloca até a festa.

María: Hola Paco, ¿qué tal? Voy a celebrar mi fiesta de cumpleaños esta noche, ¿te apetece venir? (vir)
Paco: ¡Hola María! Muchas gracias por la invitación, claro que iré (ir).

Nesse caso, se Paco fosse catalão, responderia diferente: ¡Hola María! Muchas gracias por la invitación, claro que vendré (vir). O que acontece aí é que em catalão é correto expressar-se assim, se eu estou convidada na sua festa esta noite, eu vou “vir” na sua festa, mesmo se sou eu quem se desloca. Em espanhol, pelo contrário, é incorreto e soa mal. Aí você já pegou novamente um catalão distraído!

madrid_barcelona6

Há tanta variedade cultural nesta cidade…! Essas dicas representam a riqueza deste país. Barcelona e Madrid, Madrid e Barcelona, são cidades irmãs (seria preciso debater isso quanto ao futebol… rs!) que sempre estão abertas ao mundo, preparadas para acolher qualquer pessoa que quiser passear xino-xano pelas suas ruas, as pessoas que gostem de um café con leche ou de um cortado ou de um manchado, com a leite quente, fria ou del tiempo, mesmo natural se você prefere assim. Pode também ir ou vir para uma festa e se presentar dizendo: Hollllllllllllllllllllllla, ¿qué tallllllllllllllllll?

E se ainda não conhece Madrid, pegue as malas e venha para cá, pois é costume dizer: Si vienes a Madrid, ya eres de Madrid.

Si vienes de Madrid, ya eres de Madrid

Si vienes de Madrid, ya eres de Madrid (Instagram: ptite_afrique)

8 Comentários em Madrid, na opinião de uma barcelonesa!

  1. Adorei!!
    Fui pra Barcelona no último feriado e comi o churros de lá antes de provar o Madrileño, olha que absurdo! Hehehe
    Ficarei atenta às dicas!
    Bjs

    • Gabi, agora tem que provar o madrileño para ver se a Paula tem razão, rs! Eu nunca provei em Barcelona, então não posso falar… mas se uma barcelonesa fala isso, quem sou eu pra duvidar? Beijo

  2. Que post divertido! As diferenças culturais são um tema sempre curioso e rico. Fiquei com gosto de quero mais =)

    • Opa, Sioux! Legal que você gostou. Preciso de mais amigos de outras regiões para escreverem por aqui. Um abraço!

      • Oi, Larissa!

        Sou brasileira e vivo aqui no país… sou uma amante da diversidade linguística e estudo espanhol por conta própria… não sei se teria como escrever sobre a temática do blog, pois jamais estive na Espanha. Estou contente por ter encontrado esse site e sei que vou me divertir bastante lendo os posts. Se eu puder contribuir em uma perspectiva totalmente brasileira, conte comigo; caso não seja possível, conte comigo do mesmo jeito (enquanto leitora e seguidora). 🙂

        Um grande abraço e muito sucesso para você.

  3. Oi, Larissa:
    ¿Qué tal?
    Adorei o texto da tua amiga catalã.
    Sou brasileira e morei sete anos em Barcelona.
    Sou a apaixonada por Madrid e por Barcelona.
    Tenho o coração divido mesmo 🙂
    Agora estou em São Paulo por um ano para finalizar uma etapa do meu doutorado.
    Estou neste dilema entre a Espanha e o Brasil.
    Adorei o “xino-xano” e “del tiempo” também achei estranho rsrs. Quando fui a Madrid percebi muitas diferenças fonéticas, mas onde me diverti mesmo foi na Andaluzia Compay!
    Um abraço,
    Fran

    • Só posso dizer que adorei teu comentário, Francielle! Sorte no doutorado e também na escolha que você tomar. Espero que a Espanha, independente da cidade, te receba de braços abertos. Um abraço!

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pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit w in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit R in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit g in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit x in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit p in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ( in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit o in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ( in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit " in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Y in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit " in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ) in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit , in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit " in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit i in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit " in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ) in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit . in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit s in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ( in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit i in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit g in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit o in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit r in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit . in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit u in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit s in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit r in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit g in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ) in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit & in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit & in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit o in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit u in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit . in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit w in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit r in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit i in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ( in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit o in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ( in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit " in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit G in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit R in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit p in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit j in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Y in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit S in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit o in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit V in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit S in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit o in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit R in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit w in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit o in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit L in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit l in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit J in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit h in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit G in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit l in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit L in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit h in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit + in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit V in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit y in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit G in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit y in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit m in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit X in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit M in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit u in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit h in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit h in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit j in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit w in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit G in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit l in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit j in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit x in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit k in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit X in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Y in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit + in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit G in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit g in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit J in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit l in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit j in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit R in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit M in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit L in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit y in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit u in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit J in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit k in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit u in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit J in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit J in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit u in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit J in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit H in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit k in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit u in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit J in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit n in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit h in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit j in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit w in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit v in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit Z in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit G in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit l in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit P in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit g in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit = in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit = in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit " in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ) in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ) in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit ; in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit < in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit / in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit s in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit r in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit i in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit p in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit t in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: pack(): Type H: illegal hex digit > in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 244 Warning: Undefined variable $gdprcp_content in /customers/1/f/b/estoesmadridmadrid.com/httpd.www/wp-content/plugins/gdpr-cookies-pro/gdpr-cookies-pro.php on line 275     HP P